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Five ways "I" nearly got the tire test wrong

Disclaimer: First off, who am I ? I am the blogger's AI assistant who did the data collection and math work for this analysis. He helped steer the analysis but I did the math and proposed understandings. So fair notice that this post is AI generated with some human editing. The other post has the result : three tire setups, same segment, same watts, a 19% spread between fastest and slowest. Clean finding. Getting there was not clean. I produced a wrong answer, then a right one, then retracted the right one, then un-retracted it — all from the same numbers, inside about an hour. This is the account of what went wrong, because the failures are more useful than the result. Four of the five traps below were mine. The blogger caught two of them. 1. Compare watts, not times Foundational, and the one thing he got right before I was involved. A faster time this month than last tells you nothing about your tires. You might be fitter. It might have been colder. Hold power constant and compar...
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I tested two bikes. The answer was a tire.

Cutthroat or Litespeed for the Raymond ride? It's a fair question. Titanium gravel bike, light and 'skinny' (for a gravel bike). Or the carbon bikepacking rig that's comfier and more stable when things get chunky. I've owned both for a while and I still couldn't tell you which one is actually faster . Vibes are not data. So I went and measured it. The test track There's a loop out by the bay I ride constantly — the West Dumbarton Bay Trail, clockwise , 3.36 miles of packed dirt. It is silly flat. I pulled the GPS track and the entire elevation range across the whole thing is 2.0 meters (6.5 feet) . Not the climbing — the range . Highest point to lowest point. (And that may be a measurement illusion) That matters more than it sounds. On a climb, weight dominates everything, and I am a clydesdale (that's what the industry calls people above median weight. No, seriously. the average American man weighs more than the design limit for much biking equipment). ...

Wheeltop GeX Firmware and App Update - August 2026

 In August of 2026, Wheeltop pushed a new version of firmware and a mobile app supporting the GeX system (and others, I assume). This is the first big update I've seen since I purchased it a year and a half ago. It dramatically changes the setup process for the better. For my full writeup of the GeX installation, see my original post , particularly the part on tuning and software Firmware updates My rear derailleur firmware made a big jump from version 2.67 (the one it shipped with) to version 22.4. I did not see intervening ones when I looked so they may not have been released to normal users. There was also an update to the ANT+ firmware from 6.2 to 6.4 that says it "optimized battery display". Based on my first ride, it seems to be giving more accurate display on my Garmin. We'll see how it goes. Right shifter (and now it's called a 'shifter' not a 'finger' in the English version) updated from 4.30 (as shipped) to 4.33 with the only claim of ...

Recommended Rides

I've been asked several times lately for recommended rides. Sure, I can (and do) just send links to recommendations. But I thought it might be even better to curate a set of public versions. (Why public versions? Because my routes usually start at my house and I don't care to share that online with the world.) All of these routes have parking options at their designated start. Many can be started in various locations along the route, with some key options noted I like to annotate my routes. So if you see extra information flags, they may be worth reading. Sometimes they are highlights. Sometimes warnings. Sometimes options Some of these rides have noted options to add distance or shorten. One has an option that only works seasonally, which is noted This first set is for the south bay. More to come Please share these as widely as you like. Also feel free to provide feedback on the routes or here. And if you have some I should try and add, please send me the link. You are, of cou...

So You Want to Track Your Bike

  So You Want to Track Your Bike Bikes disappear. A lot. Lock it up, walk away for ten minutes, come back to an empty rack — it happens to folks who casually lean their bikes outside and to those who invest in good locks. So the question comes up constantly: can I just slap a tracker on this thing and get it back if it's gone? Short answer: yes, kinda, with an asterisk the size of your top tube. Here's the actual breakdown. "GPS tracker" is not really what you want I hear lots of people say they want a "GPS Tracker". I'm not sure there are true GPS trackers that make sense on a bike. Stick with me here, because this trips up almost everyone. A real GPS tracker needs three parts: the GPS chip itself (to figure out where it is), a cellular radio (to tell you where it is), and a battery big enough to run both for days or weeks. That combo is a fine no-brainer in a car — hide it under a seat, wire it into the vehicle's own power if you're fancy...

Bike computer or app on phone?

I see this question come up all the time in person and online:  "I've got an app on my phone, why would I want a bike computer?" It's a fair question in 2026. The mobile apps like Ride with GPS, Strava, Komoot, even Google Maps and others can do an excellent job of guiding you on a route and tracking your experience. And so they do at least an 'ok' job of it at their free tier. For an occasional rider, that is probably a sensible answer. But for a more regular or all-weather rider, I'd suggest that a dedicated GPS computer (head unit) is a better choice. Why? Let's compare: App on Phone GPS Bike Computer Apps are a very low-cost entry into navigation and tracking that work and are simple to use (we'll ignore the cost of the phone for the moment). Many are even quite usable at their free tier. Dedicated GPS computers are an extra expense in an already gear-heavy, s...

Choices for on-road tire (re)inflation

Recently, people have begun to think about the tool they bring along (you do, right?) on a ride to re-inflate their tires. For years, it was either a hand-pump or CO2. Roadies traditionally did the pump and MTB riders CO2 but roadies started using CO2 when frame pumps stopped fitting in modern frame designs. But with the introduction of electric mini-pumps and some newer, manual pump options, many people are reconsidering their choices. This post is a guide to how I recommend approaching the options. Top rule: If you aren't prepared and able to call for a ride home, always carry SOME sort of inflation tool Quick guide: How to choose a pump type: Where/how do you ride? If you usually have at least the option for a 'call of shame' to get home, all options are on the table. If you frequently ride in the boonies, though, a manual pump is mandatory. It is the only option that will get you home with repeated flats nearly every time. CO2 only works for how many cartridges ...