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Choices for on-road tire (re)inflation


Recently, people have begun to think about the tool they bring along (you do, right?) on a ride to re-inflate their tires. For years, it was either a hand-pump or CO2. Roadies traditionally did the pump and MTB riders CO2 but roadies started using CO2 when frame pumps stopped fitting in modern frame designs.

But with the introduction of electric mini-pumps and some newer, manual pump options, many people are reconsidering their choices. This post is a guide to how I recommend approaching the options.
Top rule: If you aren't prepared and able to call for a ride home, always carry SOME sort of inflation tool

Quick guide: How to choose a pump type:

  1. Where/how do you ride? If you usually have at least the option for a 'call of shame' to get home, all options are on the table. If you frequently ride in the boonies, though, a manual pump is mandatory. It is the only option that will get you home with repeated flats nearly every time. CO2 only works for how many cartridges you carry, and few carry more than 2. Electric pumps can usually only fill 2-4 cycles on a charge. (interestingly, most perform similarly on a narrow high-pressure tire and a wide low-pressure tire) After that, you're stuck.
  2. How do you handle keeping things charged? Electric pumps usually last months in your bag, but they do need to be checked and topped up, particularly after use or you'll find it useless in need. If you're the type who always finds their devices flat, this isn't going to be a great choice for you.
  3. How do you feel about generating trash? CO2 cartridges are easy and fast, and they work well to reseat a tubeless tire that came off the bead. But every time you use one (and you'll probably use 2), you generate trash (recycle if you can; they are steel). But they require essentially zero maintenance and are compact. Make sure you get an adapter that has a control valve. The press-on-and-go type is difficult or impossible to moderate and conserve gas and manage tire pressure.
  4. How will you carry it? Most types can be stashed in a hydration or other wearable pack. But not all can fit in a tool bag or pocket. Manual pumps and CO2 can often be fitted to a bracket on the bike.
Personally, my primary solution on most bikes is a manual pump. On my older road bikes, I still have full-length frame pumps, which work great but don't fit on most modern frames. On the gravel bikes, I have a compact hand pump in a bracket next to the water bottles. But I often take an electric pump with me if I'm carrying things because of the convenience and ability to get the right pressure (on some pumps). Otherwise, I either stuff a short hand pump or an e-pump in my jersey pocket.

Tips by type

Electric pumps

There are a number of these on the market now, and they are a game-changer. Much easier to stash in a pocket or bag than pumps. I've had a chance to test a bunch of these and have thoughts:

When you get it, charge it and USE it. See IF it will fully inflate your tire (some can't, particularly with high-volume or pressure tires) and how many times it can. IMO, a good one should have no problem doing YOUR tire 2-3 times. (passable if the third is limp home pressure) But some of them are junk and cannot meet this test. (return it if you can)

Story: I had to make the call of shame when one wouldn't inflate my road tire without a fresh charge. I'd been using ones that could and assumed that it would be fine after topping them up since charging. But this one had self-discharged, and the remaining charge could not reach operational pressure before quitting on a single road tire.

  • Consider these as a middle option between CO2 and a hand pump. They have the ease of use of CO2 without the waste. And they have the multi-flat capability of a pump. But not the infinite capacity (so long as your arms last). Many can't do two cycles and most can't get past the third. So they are finite like CO2
  • It is another device to keep charged. If you're bad at that, don't do it. Sure, it's an 'every few months' kind of thing (like checking sealant for tubeless) if you haven't flatted. But you need to do it.
  • If you're ordering online, look at the dimensions closely. They all look similar in pictures. But there is a big difference between the smallest ones, which stash anywhere, and the bigger ones that take up more volume than a small pump. Size does NOT always indicate capacity. Many have poor internal packaging and waste space without adding capability.
  • For roadside, presta valve use, get one that requires no tube. Directly attach the pump to the valve. While a flex pipe is handy for a hand pump (like on the Silca Tattico), it isn't needed for an electric pump since you don't need to move. And not having one save that point of failure/loss and size. The simple brick wins. NOTE: This does not apply with many TPU tubes. If your tubes have plastic valve stems, you must use the tube because the pump heat can melt the glue that holds the valve together.
  • If you use one of these (particularly the super compact ones) without a rubber shell, make sure to protect your hands. They can get very hot. (Same but opposite as CO2)
  • Not all are equal - There are a lot of junk products on the market and even some of the decent ones have issues. The most comprehensive testing so far has been done by Zero Friction Cycling in Australia (warning: deeply nerdy data). He's measured inflation performance (as others have), but he also tested them to the point of failure. Many really don't last very long. Some of this is the nature of tiny parts working very fast and hard. But the fact that some last much longer than others says that the quality of design and manufacturing matters. Interestingly, it is usually the pump mechanism that dies before the battery does. It also shows that you should think twice about using these pumps for daily inflation. Granted, adding a few PSI every few days is way less wear than a full zero-80psi run. But their life is finite. I ended up buying a Viair Recon Mini (Mfg site) (affiliate link) because it was the one that lasted and is tiny. It is not the only good one. 

Full-size frame pump

If your bike fits a full-sized frame pump, get one. They are the most efficient to use when you need them and they stash away for a classic look. Not many new ones left on the market and a good one like the Silca Impero Ultimate II (manufacturer linkaffiliate link) is a luxury product. But if you can find an older Zefal HP (eBay link) they're great and a classic plastic Silca Impero (eBay link) is cool. Do keep in mind that you must get the size that fits your frame.

L-R, Vintage Silca in Celeste, Modern Impero Ultimate II, Zefal HP

Pocket pump

There are lots of options in this realm. They are the default for hand pumps these days. But they generally require much more work to fill the tire than a long-stroke, full-frame pump. Personally, I've used a few but the ones I like and continue to carry are:
  • Silca Tattico Mini-Pump (manufacturer link, affiliate link). This one is a bit longer than the others, but very compact and clips in next to a water bottle cage such that you forget it's there. It has a pull-out hose that locks onto the valve stem, which is a big advantage in real use. The hose means you don't need to keep the pump at a specific angle and position relative to the valve and a locking adapter means it stays on. Also a long stroke for efficient pumping. It's also well designed for living in grime. There is an outer shaft seal to keep the pump action clean and the hose and chuck tuck under a rubber cap.

  • More pocketable is the Pocket Impero II (manufacturer link, affiliate link). This one fits in jersey pockets without sticking out and even my small top tube bag. Pumping action is remarkably efficient for a short pump. But it is a classic design that presses on and has to be held on the valve correctly.

Other reputable makers with many options include:
  • Lezyne. They have many many options. Look for the form factor and features that work for you.
  • Topeak. Same story
  • Various others like SKS, Bontrager and other bike brands
But keep in mind, even a cheap, simple one is going to be better than nothing. They all put air in for a while at least.

CO2 Adapters

As I mentioned, get one with valve control. There are many manufacturers and they are simple devices. They need a valve stem adapter and a control valve that threads onto standard CO2 cartridges. If you don't get a cartridge wrap, be careful when you use them. The cartridge gets freezing cold in seconds and can hurt you.


For more info on roadside repairs: Roadside Repair Prep

Note: I've provided affiliate and manufacturer links because it doesn't hurt to use the affiliate ones and tosses me a few pennies. But Amazon is not always the best deal or the most informative and it's good to support good, local shops. So source where you prefer.



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