Roadside Repair Prep

I've been asked often of late "what do I need to carry for roadside repair?"  I decided to write my thoughts down here, once to point to. I don't think I have the one and only correct answer. I don't even carry the same kit on all bikes. But here are some thoughts:

What I generally pack:

Inflation device

• A pump is my preference because it always works and never runs out of capacity (although I might while using it). Cheap and/or micro pumps get the job done. (usually), but quality ones and larger ones do usually work much better or easier. If your bike has the place to put a full size frame pump, those are the best, but generally aren't an option on modern bikes.
• But I sometimes carry CO2 instead/in addition for rapid inflation and on tubeless, to have the ability to pop a bead back on.
• Lately I've been carrying a tiny battery pump on my road bike that has no room for a frame mounted pump. It's a compromise between the simple-but-one-shot nature of CO2 and a manual pump. They work remarkably well. But you need to make sure it's charged and know you only get a couple of tries. (and they get HOT in use, be careful)

Patching solution

• With tubes, have the right type of patches (butyl vulcanized system vs TPU stick on). You can strip down to just the parts and leave the 'kit' behind, but at least two patches, the adhesive (if applicable) and the prep tool (alcohol wipes or abrasive) Do this even if you plan to swap tubes in case you get a second hole on the road.
• Tubeless: A plug kit. I'm really liking Dynaplugs as they go in super easy without prep and work. But they're pricey. Basic bacon strips work fine. But I find them a little harder to get in - including often needing to ream out the hole first. And they and require loading onto the insertion needle which can be fiddly and means you're going to lose more air before you get it in.

Spare tube(s)

• Worth having if you can fit it. Sometimes you get a flat in a place where you really don't want to be fiddling with patches. Also sometimes, tubes tear and can't be patched.
• I carry one on tubeless bikes as well just in case there is damage that can't be repaired.
• Consider 2 depending on where you're riding
• TPU tubes are so small they are easy to find a place to stash in most kits. I carry them even on my old bikes that still run butyl tubes. But be aware that they are sensitive to sharp edges and if you don't have a well taped rim, you'll have problems. If you're talking a road bike, skinny road butyl tubes aren't that big anyway. (MTB tubes practically need a backpack to carry 😏)
• Note: Tubes should NOT be tossed when you get a flat. (It horrifies me how often I hear of this) Most punctures are repairable and good as new afterward. I often swap for a working one when on the road for simplicity. But then go patch it when you get home and put it in your spares kit for next time.

Plastic tire lever (at least one)

• One can usually get the job done. Two makes it easier but takes more space/weight Don't use metal ones. Particularly on carbon rims. Also don't waste space with cheap, flimsy ones, they break at the worst times and are pointless since you could have probably used your hands on a tire that comes off that easily. I like Pedros levers a lot but there are other good ones.

Multitool:

• Look at the fittings on the parts of the bike you'd be able to service. Probably a bunch of hex heads for allen keys, maybe some torx heads, maybe some screw heads and maybe even a conventional hex top needing a wrench. Let this inventory drive what multitool works for you.
• I prefer one with a chainbreaker. Even a basic, meh, one will get the broken links off so you can reconnect.
• Lots of choices in design, completeness, size, weight, quality. Take your pick of one that will fix what you can fix.
• Very few come with regular wrench options. If you have hex top bolts on your bike, get a tiny adjustable wrench or Knipex tool (parallel grip pliers that can work as a wrench as well as pliers but are quite pricey). If you only have one bolt head size, you can just get a tiny one in that size.
• Consider whether you need a big wrench like an 8mm. Very few multitools have one that big and it won't have good leverage. Pedals and crankarms need one. But they don't usually need adjustment on the road if you torqued them correctly in the first place. If you want coverage, slip a conventional allen wrench in the kit

Quicklinks:

• Carry at least one set appropriate for your chain. You might need it to replace the one one there if it fails. But it's also useful if the chain breaks/gets damaged, to reconnect the good parts and ride home (maybe unable to use some gear combos, be careful).
• A quicklink tool is helpful but not necessary because you're unlikely to need to REMOVE the link. (and there are some tricks to do it without a tool, search on it). Connecting a link is easier with a tool IMO, but totally doable just by connecting with fingers and then using the crank to pull the chain.

Is this enough? Too much?

Obviously touring in the boondocks might suggest carrying spares or other tools, but this setup can get me home from most things that might happen on normal rides.

Depending on the bike and how big of a carrying space I'm willing to devote, I vary for completeness and size of tools. On the road, I tend to skimp and slim it down. But on gravel and MTB, I want all the things and am willing to find a place to put them in a bigger seat bag or a hydration pack.

The multitools that stash in your bar ends or stem are pricey but a slick way to get them out of the way and yet always be there. Then you only have to stash inflation and patches. If you have one of the new bikes that have a stash place in the frame, use it to its fullest.

Keep in mind, most of this is moot if you don't know how to use the tools on the bike. So adjust accordingly. If all you're comfortable with is pumping air, then the other tools are really not worth carrying (unless you ride with someone who can wrench) and you might as well just carry your phone and/or an InReach (depending on where you ride). But if you're really that unskilled in working on a bike and you ride regularly, I really recommend spending the time to learn how the bike works and can be serviced. There are lots of classes at bike shops, bike charities, etc. You can still have a pro do the regular and/or hard work day-to-day. But you'll be safer and ultimately a more confident rider if you learn.